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You didn’t simply stumble upon this article. There’s a burning desire in you to climb the world’s highest mountain. Maybe in a couple of months or a year. You have a plan to climb Lhotse as well. And that’s the perfect plan. But you are not sure about certain things. Like the best time for an Everest or Lhotse expedition. Perhaps the travel insurance for the climbing. You know that “the mountains are calling you!” The mighty Everest and Lhotse have beckoned you. Whether you are a pro-climber or an aspiring climber, this blog will help you navigate the intricate terrain of Everest and Lhotse, providing invaluable insights into the preparation, challenges, and triumphs that define these monumental climbs. And if you need any help, feel free to reach out to us, our team will be more than happy to help you plan and prepare for this expedition.
There’s hardly anyone who doesn’t know about Everest. Everest, the highest mountain in the world, has long captivated the imaginations of adventurers and explorers with the promise of standing on the roof of the world. Lhotse, the neighboring giant, is the world’s fourth-highest peak and stands shoulder-to-shoulder with Everest on the Nepal-Tibet border. With its awe-inspiring elevation of 8,848m (29,032 feet), Everest is the epitome of earthly grandeur. Similarly, Lhotse stands at a soaring elevation of 8,516m (27,940 feet), just 330m shy of Everest’s towering summit. Lhotse means “South Peak,” named after its geographical alignment to the south of Mount Everest. Lhotse shares the same base camp and climbing route to Everest.
Mount Everest was first successfully climbed on May 29, 1953, by Sir Edmund Hillary of New Zealand and Tenzing Norgay, a Sherpa of Nepal. This monumental achievement has transformed Everest into the ultimate challenge for climbers worldwide. Since then, thousands of people have attempted to climb Mount Everest, and 6664 people have successfully climbed as of December 2023. Lhotse witnessed its first ascent on May 18, 1956, by Ernst Schmied and Jurg Marmet. Since then, Lhotse has been attracting climbers from across the globe. The legacy of these historical ascents continues to inspire adventurers to conquer the boundaries of altitude and time.
Here are some important facts about Everest and Lhotse expedition:
Elevation
Duration
First Ascent
Expedition Route
Technical Challenges
Climbing Seasons
Climbing Permits
(Please note that a TIMS Card is no longer required for the trek to Everest Base Camp)
If you are climbing from the Tibet Side, you need the following permits:
Military Permit
Out of 17 different routes to the summit of Everest, there are two primary routes: the North Col route in Tibet and the South Col route in Nepal. The South Col route is the widely used route to the Everest summit, and for good reasons. The route’s popularity is attributed to its accessibility, relatively stable weather and the journey via the world’s most sought-after trek-EBC trek. Adding to this, the well-established services along the route enhance its desirability among climbers. On the other hand, the North Col route from the Tibet side is less preferred due to the unpredictable weather conditions on the north side, stronger wind and colder temperatures. This route, with a more challenging ascent, is ideal for experienced climbers.
When it comes to climbing some of the highest peaks in the world, weather conditions play a crucial role. It directly impacts on the success rate. In that sense, spring (pre-monsoon) and autumn (post-monsoon) seasons offer optimal weather conditions. Among these two seasons, spring is deemed the premier season to scale the Everest and Lhotse. Between April and June, climbers experience relatively stable weather conditions and unobstructed views of the mountains and surrounding landscapes. On the flip side, autumn, from September to November, offers a comparatively low weather stability rate. However, there is the advantage of a less-crowded experience.
The arduous climb to the world’s highest and fourth-highest peaks requires around 6 to 8 weeks via the South Col route in Nepal. This timeframe includes the trek to Everest Base Camp, ascending and descending to both peaks. Climbers make acclimatization rotations at points like Khumbu Icefall, Western Cwm and the South Col to acclimatize at high altitudes. Within this time window, climbers need to acclimatize, prepare for the final push, and descend to the base camp and finally to Kathmandu. Most teams assemble in Kathmandu, trek to the base camp of Everest, slowly ascend to the higher camps up the mountain and summit Everest, and then attempt Lhotse since the ascents of these peaks are closely connected.
On average, the cost of the Mount Everest Expedition alone is 50,000 USD (approximately 75,000 AUD). The average cost for the Everest and Lhotse Expeditions is around 90,000 USD (approximately 135,000 AUD). This price can vary depending on the services provided by the mountain guiding companies, their expertise, success rate, reputation, and several other factors. The duration of the expedition, including acclimatization rotations, summit attempts, and rest periods, can affect the overall cost. Some operators present lower costs, while others may charge higher fees, offering an experienced guide and support team and enhanced support services.
One thing you need to be clear about for this expedition is the difficulty of climbing Everest and Lhotse. It’s the toughest job to climb the world’s highest and fourth-highest peaks. You will be scaling the peak at higher altitudes with reduced oxygen levels, braving unpredictable weather and traversing precarious terrain. Some sections of the climb are hardly walkable. For a successful ascent only, there are things that need to be in your favour, from calm weather and clear skies to optimal physical and mental conditions. Additionally, favourable snow and ice conditions on the route, minimal risks of avalanches and a well-coordinated support team enhance the chances of success. In short, it’s extremely challenging to scale these two peaks and demands previous climbing experiences and technical climbing skills.
The permits required to climb the Everest from the south side in Nepal are
The NMA permit is a Nepal government-issued permit that costs a total of 11,000 USD (approximately 16,000 AUD) for the Everest Expedition. Please note that the government plans to raise this price to 15,000 USD from 2025. In addition to the NMA permit fee, you must obtain a Khumbu Rural Municipality permit and a Sagarmatha National Park entry permit. The NMA permit will also work for the Lhotse expedition as they share the same route and base camp. The NMA Climbing Permit generally covers both Everest and Lhotse when climbers are attempting both peaks from the south side of Nepal.
The new permit system- Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Entrance Permit- has been implemented recently and you no longer require a TIMS card. The cost of this permit is RS 2000 (approximately 23 AUD) per person. Please note that this permit can only be collected from Lukla, not Kathmandu. The other permit you need is the Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit, which costs RS. 3000 (approximately 35 AUD) per person. You can collect it either from Kathmandu at the Nepal Tourism Board or at the Park Entrance Gate at Monjo.
90,000 USD is a huge money, right? You would never want to use it for an unsuccessful ascent. Never in a million years. Therefore, you must ensure you are physically as well as mentally prepared for this expedition. If you are a beginner climber, you may want to hold this expedition until you climb some other peaks in Nepal, like the popular trekking peaks, Island and Mera Peak. This is because you will be exposed to the Himalayan setting of climbing the peak, the terrains, the complexity and, not to mention the familiarity of using the climbing gear.
Climbing Everest and Lhotse is a challenging endeavor. If you are unable to walk a couple of hours, let alone navigate challenging terrain, you should seriously reconsider your ambition of climbing the peak.
First, let’s see the training required to trek to the base camp and beyond that. Engage in a progressive training routine for at least two months before the trek. Your training should incorporate cardiovascular exercises like running and strength training to prepare muscles for the trek through rugged terrain. You must be mentally prepared for challenging days, varying weather conditions, and high altitudes. Acclimatization is another crucial aspect of preparation. During the trek, follow a gradual ascent approach, stay hydrated, and maintain a steady pace. The best rule is to listen to your body and act accordingly. And remember to pack the right gear and clothes.
Now, let’s dive into training to climb the peak. The physical preparation for these expeditions is not merely about building general strength but also cultivating endurance, resilience, and altitude-specific fitness. For steep ascents and technical climbing, add strength training drills encompassing both core and muscle-specific exercises. You must also focus on altitude-specific fitness. Make sure to train to acclimatize to reduced oxygen levels. Learn ice, snow, and rock techniques as well. On top of physical training, mental preparation is equally crucial. You can engage in mindfulness practices, stress management techniques, and focus-enhancing exercises. Determination, commitment, and perseverance are the key pillars in the challenging realm of high-altitude mountaineering.
For the trekking part, you will be spending nights at teahouses, the most popular form of accommodation in the Everest region. A typical tea house provides all the basic amenities needed for a trekker for a comfortable stay. These accommodations usually consist of simple rooms with twin beds, basic bedding, and shared bathroom facilities. Dining areas in the tea houses serve a variety of meals, including both local and international dishes. The local cuisine primarily centers on rice, noodles, and potatoes, reflecting the staple crops of the region. Dal Bhat is a popular choice among trekkers, consisting of rice and lentil soup, accompanied by various vegetable and potato curries. Noodles and pasta dishes are common, typically served with local vegetables and sauces. Local Sherpa communities often consume hearty vegetarian fare, emphasizing lentils, grains, and vegetables. It’s advisable to refrain from consuming meat at higher altitudes.
As you ascend to higher elevations, you will likely spend nights on tented camps established at strategic points by the support staff. These higher camps serve as essential resting points during acclimatization rotations and the final summit push. The expedition cooks will prepare food for you, generally serving nourishing and energy-dense meals. The basic setup is that above Everest Base Camp, except for basic accommodation and amenities. Most experienced climbers eat cheese, nuts, fruits, granola, oatmeal, eggs, chocolates, organic dehydrated foods and canned meals.
Peak climbing brings possibilities of risk and hazards that could take your life. No matter how prepared you are, unforeseen circumstances in the mountain can introduce immediate challenges. The unpredictable nature of the mountain, coupled with extreme conditions, underscores the importance of preparation and sound decision-making. You never know what happens in the mountain. Therefore, you must get insurance for trip cancellations, delays, or interruptions, along with reimbursement for lost or delayed baggage. This coverage becomes crucial in emergencies, ensuring swift and efficient evacuation in case of injury or severe illness. Make sure that the travel insurance covers your activity and the altitude is over 8000m.
If you are from the USA or Canada, Travel Guard, IM Global, and TuGo are the three recommended insurances for you. If you are from Europe, we recommend Europ Assistance, IHI BUPA, and AXA Insurance. Likewise, if you are a UK citizen, the British Mountaineering Council, DogTag UK, and Adventure Insurance are some of the popular insurance for you. For Australian and New Zealand citizens, Cover-More travel insurance, Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance, and 1 Cover travel insurance are highly recommended.
Here’s a list of climbing gear and equipment for Everest and Lhotse expedition:
